### Taiwan's Dynamic Democracy Under China's Shadow
TAIPEI, Taiwan — Living under the constant reminder of its larger, more powerful, and aggressive neighbor, China, Taiwan navigates a delicate political landscape. This omnipresent threat significantly shapes the island's political life, especially now. On Monday, Lai Ching-te will be inaugurated as Taiwan's fifth democratically elected president, following his January election victory. Previously serving as vice president under Tsai Ing-wen, Lai's history as a proponent of Taiwanese independence has led Beijing to avoid direct engagement with him. Nevertheless, Lai now champions the Democratic Progressive Party’s (DPP) efforts to balance peace with resistance to Chinese aggression.
The Chinese Communist Party claims Taiwan as its own, despite never having governed the island, and has threatened military action to enforce unification. With Lai's inauguration approaching, Beijing is expected to increase its intimidation efforts.
Amid these geopolitical challenges, Taiwan's vibrant democracy thrives, much to Beijing's chagrin, showcasing that democracy and Chinese culture can coexist. Just 100 miles from China, Taipei, the capital, blends chaos and order as its 2.6 million residents go about their daily lives.
Taipei is a city of contrasts, filled with the sounds of motorcycles, karaoke, and bustling markets. Mornings see elderly residents practicing tai chi in parks and shopping at wet markets, while evenings are dominated by tourists and young people exploring shopping districts and night markets, often lingering in karaoke bars into the early hours. Scooters are the preferred mode of transport, and the city’s subway system is bustling with commuters.
The city's skyline features modern skyscrapers and sprawling apartment complexes alongside neighborhood temples, which come alive during election seasons. Taiwan, having moved past its colonial and authoritarian history, was the first in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage and boasts an energetic drag scene. The country's passion for baseball rivals that of American fans.
Taiwan's distinctive charm is evident even in its presidential office. Outgoing president Tsai Ing-wen, known for her love of cute things, shares photos of her adopted cats and dogs on social media, even donning cat ears at public events. Military parades often feature floats depicting F-16 fighter jets as adorable, bubbly planes amid cheerful cartoon clouds.
Visitors are often impressed by the residents' politeness and orderliness. During a campaign rally before the January presidential election, thousands filled the main boulevard in front of the president’s office. Within half an hour after the event, plastic stools were neatly stacked, and the area was cleared of litter.
Taiwan’s presidential election campaigns are a spectacle, resembling a mix of nationwide pop concerts and street parties, complete with dancers and cheerleaders. The streets echo with enthusiastic chants of “dong suan” — Taiwanese for “get elected” — which amusingly sounds like “frozen garlic” in Mandarin. Everyone, from young parents to elderly residents, participates in the four-week campaign.
At one concert, former parliamentarian and metalhead Freddy Lim performed with his Buddhist death metal band, Dharma. Candidates like Hsieh Tzu-han, running for the DPP in Taichung, cruised through neighborhoods on the back of pickup trucks, broadcasting slogans and music from loudspeakers. The streets were adorned with large posters urging support for various candidates, creating a festive and spirited atmosphere.